what to do....

Discussion in 'Cycling Archive' started by Zebee Johnstone, May 13, 2015.

  1. This is a vent more than anything....

    So I have a recumbent, it's a very nice steel framed stick bike I
    bought back in 2006 when it was the only one on offer in Oz that fit
    my small size. Only just mind you....

    I upgraded the 20" front to a 24" front and that was a definite
    improvement. Alas though as the years went by that size of wheel and
    tyre got harder and harder to find and more expensive.

    Meanwhile I lost a fair chunk of weight and part of that I discovered
    is your x-seam (the distance between seat and pedal on a 'bent)
    changes and now my bike was not *quite* small enough.

    I can still ride it comfortably but I keep wanting to move the seat a
    little bit forward and I can't as I'm hard up against the idler.

    The front rim got flattened a bit on a nasty bit of road, so I looked
    to see if I could buy another. No one who would ship to me had one
    anywhere and the Oz distributor said he'd help then went silent.

    So I asked a shipper to buy one on the US and they said the maker
    didn't have any did I want to hang on and see if they would get some
    at some point? Yes I did... and that was middle of last year.

    So fast forward and I start talking to schlitter.bike about a carbon
    'bent made for me. So everything properly sized. We talk, I finally
    say yes. They aren't shipping full bikes to Oz, only
    frame/seat/forks/bars. BYO drivetrain, brakes and wheels.

    Then 3 days after that the shipper tells me the 24" rims (I bought 2
    on the grounds of them being unobtainable and this meaning my bike can
    continue for a long time) are on the way!

    A week after that I hit a hidden pothole at speed and rip the front
    wheel damn near in half. Very glad for disc brakes I tell you.

    I have no idea what to do with the various bikes.

    A nearly 10yo well used commuter 'bent in a small size seems pretty
    well unsaleable in working format, definitely so if the buyer has to
    build a front wheel. I have the original 20" front but that doesn't
    have a disk hub. The busted 24" has a disk hub of course but that hub
    is SON dynamo and I was going to re-use that on the Schlitter.

    Last year I put an 8spd Alfine on, and I love it so I don't want to go
    back to deraileurs on the Schlitter but the bars on that are narrower
    than the ones I have and the trigger shifters might go a bit far in.

    And I have no tools or experience in building bikes so any swapping or
    faffing about is going to be done by a bikeshop at vast expense.

    If I was an experienced bike mechanic I could build the steel bike up
    with its old components and make it a viable thing to keep or sell,
    use the hubs and disks off it on the new one, all good.

    But I'm not, and the cost of paying someone else would be prohibitive,
    may as well try and give it away!

    Suppose I give the shop all the bits to make the new carbon bike (and
    they all work) so I am left with a kitbike...

    What tools do I need to
    - put a new bottom bracket and cranks on
    - build a front wheel with rim brakes
    - fit a 9sp derailleur on the back to a new bought wheel (and can you
    buy cheap 26" rears that will fit that?)

    How hard is all the above to do for someone who has never seen it
    done, but can follow instructions and where are there suitable
    instructions?

    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, May 13, 2015
    #1
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  2. Zebee Johnstone

    Tosspot Guest

    Assuming a sealed BB, a spanner and the fiddly tool thing, quite easy.
    You need to look, as there are variations, but they are cheap as
    shrimps. E.g.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/bottombracket.html

    The cranks are just as easy, assuming square taper. You need a crank
    puller, e.g.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-crank-extractor/rp-prod10181
    If it has a hanger, then not trivial, but quite easy. You'll need a new
    longer chain, and you'll need to mount the shifter some how. Depending
    on the 'bent, either traditional stem shifters or bar end shifters.
    Some stuff here;

    http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html
    This is trickier. I build my own wheels, and I'm a clutz, *but* you
    need patience and above all a wheel building stand. Also, it isn't
    cheap. I'd go and pay someone to build it with the available parts.
    So, BB, cranks, easy. Shifter/gears, not as easy, but quite doable.
    Wheel, I'd look elsewhere unless you really want to learn the arcane arts.


    In all this, set aside time. You *really* don't want to be rushing when
    it's you're first time.
     
    Tosspot, May 14, 2015
    #2
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  3. In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 14 May 2015 08:45:10 +0100
    It's realively modern and mainstream and mid to low range sram I
    think.
    It's the kit the bike had on it before I went hub gear. So originally
    gripshift, then I went to bar ends.

    I would have to add some chain although the hub has a fairly long
    tensioner on it to cope with the triple up front so maybe not.
    I guess the go is just put the 20" in and say the new owner can have
    the 24" rims if they want...
    I think what I will do is take the old one in to the shop alongside
    the new one and they can swap the BB and shifters and cables and
    brakes and anything else.

    Then I can start to assemble it back into a bike or decide bugger it
    and recycle it to the local 'bent heads if someone wants to build a
    bike for a kid or other small human.

    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, May 14, 2015
    #3
  4. Zebee Johnstone

    Tosspot Guest

    On 14/05/15 09:55, Zebee Johnstone wrote:

    Definitely easiest, but I'd get a quote/estimate unless you trust/have
    had experience with them.
    Oook!
     
    Tosspot, May 14, 2015
    #4
  5. In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 14 May 2015 11:01:51 +0100
    They have been looking after this bike since I bought it, they are the
    ones who put the hub gear on, and they were the ones who put the MD
    on.

    They are a bike shop specialising in transport and touring and are
    Brompton dealers. So both my bikes go there.
    You want me to say the M word?

    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, May 14, 2015
    #5
  6. Zebee Johnstone

    Clive George Guest

    I've built quite a few wheels now and never used a wheel building stand
    - a pair of forks for front wheels has done me. But a proper stand would
    probably make it easier.

    If you're interested in building wheels, a front is definitely the one
    to start with.
     
    Clive George, May 14, 2015
    #6
  7. It's not possible to pad the seat back?
    If you have conventional cranks (the late great Sheldon Brown will let you
    identify all this stuff), a crank puller, a bottom bracket tool, and
    ideally a torque wrench good for 40Nm or so.
    Spoke key, dishing tool (or improvise same). Nice to have a truing stand,
    but an upside-down bicycle will do. Ideally a copy of The Bicycle Wheel.
    If possible, a tensiometer; if not, a non-cloth ear which can adjust the
    tone of the new spokes to be like unto the old.
    If you have a master link in the chain, I can't think that needs any
    bicycle-specific tools. But changing the cassette needs a cassette
    lockring remover.
    Sheldon Brown is where I'd start; and I think for a mechanically minded
    person (which IIRC you are) the first and third jobs are easy but the
    middle one takes a bit of practice.
     
    David Damerell, May 14, 2015
    #7
  8. Zebee Johnstone

    Tosspot Guest

    It does, I have a Park Tool TS2 (probably version 1.0!) and a
    Centrimaster Classic. The park is much easier to use, but the dial
    guages on the Centrimaster really soothe the OCD gland nicely :)

    Must say, I paid about half the going rate for the Centrimaster, at what
    they want now I'd take a TS2.2 any day.
    Yep. It ain't hard, and once you start, well, I'll take a TK-540,
    Alpine III's with a Shimano 3N80 please. Laced crows foot of course.
     
    Tosspot, May 14, 2015
    #8
  9. You need only the spoke key and upside down bicycle for solidish
    wheels. Dishing can be tested closely enough with a finger, and
    you can adjust the tension well enough by feel - my hearing not
    being of use for such things! Final tweaking of tension is just
    to get the wheel so that it is planar. The point is that, the more
    solid your wheel, the more forgiving the build - Westwood being the
    classic extreme, where missing a few spokes didn't matter much!

    But you may also need a small file, in case your spokes are a bit
    longer than they are supposed to be! That and a junior hacksaw
    allows you to use spokes of slightly different lengths, if you
    don't know the exact length needed, cannot get them or just have
    some hanging around :)


    Regards,
    Nick Maclaren.
     
    Nick Maclaren, May 14, 2015
    #9
  10. Zebee Johnstone

    Mike Causer Guest

    But they don't seem to go down to 449 and 469 wheels. I clamp the spindle
    vertically in a bench vice so the rim is horizontal and use a dial
    gauge. Dishing takes a bit of creativity with a straight-edge, 'cos
    proper dishing tools don't go down to....

    Happiness is a wheel where the dial gauge only twitches 0.001". Don't
    manage that often though, 0.005" is my "practical" standard. I bought
    the dial gauge over 40 years ago, hence the outmoded units.


    An LBS that can tell you exactly what tool is needed for component X,
    and whether other-brand Y or Z is compatible with X is an asset beyond
    the saving in buying components on-line. Which reminds me, must get the
    MTB BB off and have a look inside -- if they sold me the right tool!


    Mike

    Mike
     
    Mike Causer, May 14, 2015
    #10
  11. Zebee Johnstone

    Mike Causer Guest

    On Thu, 14 May 2015 18:46:30 +0100 (BST)
    A file is fine, but a Dremel is quicker.



    Mike
     
    Mike Causer, May 14, 2015
    #11
  12. Zebee Johnstone

    Rob Morley Guest

    I've not used a stand recently - I keep meaning to build one from that
    pile of steel in the corner, but in the meantime I just stick the wheel
    in a frame to true it, and flip it to see if it's dished correctly.
    This doesn't result in the finest wheels ever built, but they seem
    serviceable enough to me.
     
    Rob Morley, May 15, 2015
    #12
  13. Zebee Johnstone

    Rob Morley Guest

    My angle grinder beats your Dremel (just don't slip).
     
    Rob Morley, May 15, 2015
    #13
  14. Zebee Johnstone

    Rob Morley Guest

    And ideally a chain whip too, although that's not too hard to improvise.
     
    Rob Morley, May 15, 2015
    #14
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